Hello Guys !
Thanks for the fast response. We are testing now with Rino rear axles. I also brought up the problem at BRP cause this doesn t seem to be an incedent. I hope they come up with an snwer as well.
Just for those are interrested, we are joining the Libya rally and we try to drive the Maverick as standard as possible. Because we and some of our friends test the vehicles seriously we tried to tackle some main issues.
- Within 1000 miles we had all our shocks worn out, leaking seals and bent shims where the cause. We let the Fox shocks upgrade to next level and found the right setting
- We lost a cvt belt every 100 miles ! We place a fan at the inlet of the cvt and an upgrade-kit from Can-Am wich brings an extra inlet. We also place few sensors inside the cvt so we can check temp all the time. We also removed two springs in the clutch. This reduces the brake on the cvt enormously, wich is also good for endurance of the belt
- As i told before we now placed Rino axles on the rear cause we lost our confidence in the original CV joints.
- A reinforcement at the bracket on the front frame on wich A-arm is attached is made cause after jumps it can tear off. ( we noticed that latest models of Can-Am have this inforcement standard )
- Because the standard tie-rods are bending just as you look at it we made some heavy-duty rods ourselves
If you guys have any more advices , pls let me know.
greetings,
Wil
QFF Racing, The Netherlands
Believe it or not, adding an inline fan (I assume the "bilge-blower" type, 3" or 4" diameter) will actually impede the airflow into the CVT cover at higher rpm's. At 6-8,000 rpm, which is where your engine spends most of its time, the fins on the back side of the stock primary clutch will draw more cfm's than the mechanical blower you added can pump! We added the same setup tour race Maverick, and saw no improvement in belt life. If you run a mechanical fan, it should "Y" into the stock inlet ducting to allow free airflow as per OEM design while at higher rpm's, and when the rpm drops to a level insufficient for the primary clutch to draw air, the duct fan you installed will add relief. Try to avoid bends while plumbing the system. Each 90 degree bend you introduce will increase the static pressure equivalent to adding 30 feet of straight ducting! Those small inline fans will not have the torque to effectively push air with that much resistance. The CVT covers from the 2014 MAX have a partition that separates the primary and secondary clutches, as well as a "venturi" built into the secondary side with an exhaust outlet coming out the front of it. We are adapting said cover to our race Maverick, and will share the results after the San Felipe 250.
Regarding your broken stub axles, we have not broken any drive train components on our car thru out the 2013 SCORE/BITD season. We run Summers Bros. extended axles only because we widened the rear track to 76", but the cv's and stub axles are BRP OEM equipment. We replace the outer cv/stub axle assy. after 1000 miles tops. I replaced the stock 28 mm hub nut with an over-sized 32 mm nut AND larger washer . The new nut has the same thread, but increased bearing surface. Be sure the stamped washer is installed "convexed" so the hub nut is pushing against the
center part of the washer, while the
outer edge on the
back side of the washer is the area bearing down on the splined drive flange (the washer DOES have a bow due to stamping, and it's crucial to install it as advised to take advantage of the extra leverage the increased bearing surface offers). Use RED loctite to completely fill the splines before assembly, and immediately torque to 200 ft. lbs. Remember, loctite cures in the absence of air, so this step is crucial in seating the hub before the loctite sets. I only apply a small amount of loctite on the nut for two reasons. First, I don't want to have to apply heat to remove the nut, and secondlly, loctite is a friction modifier, and the torque value will need to be increased accordingly to achieve the same clamping force AND the stock threads are already loaded with as much tension as they can handle.
You will also need to fab up a removal tool for the hub now that you have bonded it to the stub axle. I made mine from a piece of 1/2" x 2" steel flatbar with 3 holes. 2 holes pick up opposing lug nuts, while the middle hole is slightly larger than the thread dia. of the stub axle. Weld a large nut to the outside of the center hole, and on the threaded bolt that screws into the welded nut, I welded a lug nut on so I can use my spare tire impact set up to turn the center screw. I had to weld gussets along the outside of the flat bar so it doesn't bend. Once removing the tire and hub nut, install the "puller" tightening the two stock lug nuts to bottom first (be sure the middle screw is backed out to allow the lugnuts to bottom out before the center screw contacts the stub axle). Then you can turn the inside screw, and presto! You can remove the hub w/out applying heat, therefore saving your wheel bearings. Be sure to use anti-seize on the center screw, and grind a large radius on the end of the screw so it doesn't mushroom out the threads of the stub axle when tightening it.
This is what has worked flawlessly for us. Our car is over 2,000 lbs, and believe me when I say that it is driven harder than most cars out there. NEVER had a failure in the chassis or drive train. Good luck. I'll send a photo of the removal tool if needed. Come visit our UTVUG page and check out our build. Rally racing in a UTE? Wow, you are the man!
