Who sells a cable shift conversion for the teryx? I have seen some carnage where the teryxs pops out of gear while jumping, hitting big woops and such. Where can I buy the cable conversion kit?
Thanks!!
Thanks!!
Kawasaki Teryx cable shirter kit????
- Thread starter BiggJim
- Start date
Jim I don't know of a conversion kit, but I am probably going to move the shifter tower from it's current mounting position to have it completely attached to the engine, that way it'll move with the engine as it moves on the mounts, and not have the rod pulling and pushing on the shift arm every time you hit a bump.
A cable shifter would be cool, if you find one let me know.
A cable shifter would be cool, if you find one let me know.
all you really need to do is notch the the shift spot for hight a little bit, so the shifter can wiggle forward and back a little bit so while in drive you dont bend the adjuster rod, thats what i did to mine and it works great.
jim i never heard of a shirter kit ..hmmmm. talk to chad about what they did to keenans old race teryx they did some machining on some internal parts because everytime he would jump it would come out of gear ...
Funco makes a brace kit for the shifter to keep it fronm going out of adjustment.
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The tower is very weak as we all know and this allows the play to pull it half way out of gear and "split" the cases.
The best thing to do is brace the shifter assembly to the engine so it moves as one piece. I have spoken with Scott at XMF, Funco, etc and the consensus is that bracing works great. At one time there was a cable system available but it was overpriced compared to the bracing and it brought other adjustment issues to the table. Here is how mine was done. Pretty easy and cheap. The flat bar bolting to the belt inspection cover simply bolts to a tab that is welded on the passenger side of the shifter assembly. You can build it in about 30 min and it works great. Wish I had a better pic but hope this helps.
The best thing to do is brace the shifter assembly to the engine so it moves as one piece. I have spoken with Scott at XMF, Funco, etc and the consensus is that bracing works great. At one time there was a cable system available but it was overpriced compared to the bracing and it brought other adjustment issues to the table. Here is how mine was done. Pretty easy and cheap. The flat bar bolting to the belt inspection cover simply bolts to a tab that is welded on the passenger side of the shifter assembly. You can build it in about 30 min and it works great. Wish I had a better pic but hope this helps.
I used a marine throttle cable. Searched on line and ordered the cable length I needed. Seems to work great. I don't have any pictures sorry.
Thank you for all the responces!!. I think this is the angle I am going to take, Bobby you dont happen to have another picture of the other end of your support brace do you?The tower is very weak as we all know and this allows the play to pull it half way out of gear and "split" the cases.
The best thing to do is brace the shifter assembly to the engine so it moves as one piece. I have spoken with Scott at XMF, Funco, etc and the consensus is that bracing works great. At one time there was a cable system available but it was overpriced compared to the bracing and it brought other adjustment issues to the table. Here is how mine was done. Pretty easy and cheap. The flat bar bolting to the belt inspection cover simply bolts to a tab that is welded on the passenger side of the shifter assembly. You can build it in about 30 min and it works great. Wish I had a better pic but hope this helps.
I will gladly take you one. I can do it this evening and I will get it posted. This simple fix will keep your cases together.
Looks like there is one available now. XMF has great products so now you have another option. Way to go XMF!
Scott,
I'll take one! Even thought I mounted my tower to my engine I want to free up some space under there so I can re route my intake.
Sorry the pic took a while. It is now a bit different than the original because we are no longer running the clutch cover. Mine runs directly under a breather tank tu help support it. If you are not doing that, you can run it directly to the bolt hole without turning it down at the end. Hope this helps.
The cable shift option from XMF is the only way to go... We were able to move our shifter into a more comfortable position and save the weight of the factory shift tower.
Could someone who has acess to a pic of the cable shifter post up a picture of it, XMF does not seem to have one on their website.