CanAmCommander Electric/Hydraulic steering concept

[Odyknuck]

I have been looking at a different approch to power steering on my Commander. I am not real pleased with my current Unisteer as it is only an assist and does not have the power I need for quick maneuvers in the offroading enviroment. Especialy now with the long travel and 2" wheel spacers I had to use to gain clearence for the "X" 12" rims. I was not pleased about having to use them however it is what it is. So in any event I am considering using a Toyota MR2 Electic/Hydraulic pump and either a Char-lynn Torque generator with a Rackzilla or a car power steering rack. I would prefer to use a car power rack as the Char-lynn puts a lot of stress on the Rack. The problem i am having is finding a rack that is short enough for the application. Any one have any suggestions?

[megadesertdiesel]

Seems like the unisteer works for alot of people. Is your suspension designed correctly?

1 million Elvis fans cannot be wrong.

[Odyknuck]

It did not work that great on the stock supension either. Just need something better. I am accustomed to having 2 finger hydraulic like on my Woodsbuggy so I expect the same on my UTV.

[cuflipn]

I have a full hydrostatic steering system on my Teryx. There are some down sides like its a parasitic system and a little heavy but when you say two finger steering through ANYTHING!! That is what I have and after breaking my hand I welcome the small draw it pulls on my 840 Oh and with the high rpm's of a UTV motor you can under drive the pump a lot with out loss of power or flow...

I used the Trail Gear Toyota 6" double ram with the GM power steering pump remote reservoir and oil cooler. I had to custom build a lot of my brackets but if you want more details PM me I am happy to help out...

Your not alone out there wanting something better then the electric steer assist...

My two cents on a car rack is I really don't know that you will find one that short enough so as to not mess with your steering geometry...

Cheers,
Brett

[Odyknuck]

How about some pics of your setup. I take it there is no mechanical link from the steering wheel to the rack. I used the Howe set up on my Woodsbuggy with a ram and servo in the colume.

[cuflipn]

That's correct nothing direct from the wheel...
I don't have that many pic's that show it clearly but here's one that shows the ram and my steering Bell Crank...

[dnf736]

The electric pump out a Toyota MR2 may work for you, using that with a Char-Lynn steering motor. Its heavy but it might work.

Racemx587 did a hydro P/S to his RZR, search his name for the build thread and possible ideas as well.

[Odyknuck]

Originally Posted by dnf736

The electric pump out a Toyota MR2 may work for you, using that with a Char-Lynn steering motor. Its heavy but it might work.

Racemx587 did a hydro P/S to his RZR, search his name for the build thread and possible ideas as well.

Thanks for the link. The Char-lynn and MR2 pump will no dought work however all of the load will be thru the rack and the Char-lynn is really twitcy. As it stands the rackzilla is the only OEM replacement avaliable for the Commander. So If I could find a short enough Car rack I would not have to use the Char-lynn.

[Odyknuck]

Originally Posted by cuflipn

That's correct nothing direct from the wheel...
I don't have that many pic's that show it clearly but here's one that shows the ram and my steering Bell Crank...

Thanks for the pic. I like the ideal of having a fail-safe solid link in the steering. The full hydraulic system does not allow that. All it takes is a lose hose or pump failure and no steering.

[TNT]

When you widen you decrease the angle of the tie rods and axles to the ground and develop less of a kick load at the box which is good. Problem is there is a longer lever arm to the box and greater bending load from the tire patches. If the new tie rods and axles were sized correctly, the box and drive shaft should not see the additional bending load, they should take the load out beforehand. A higher amount of torque will be required to get the same WHP and steering dampening since there is more rotating mass to react. A simple way to determine the additional amount of torque is by the same percentage of weight increase from stock. So the key is sizing your steering dampener and motor to the increase in rotating mass and not putting too much or too little torque to the box. .

Hope that makes sense.