I would find the center of the rear of the chassis (measure between the rear lower control arm pivots) and do the same for the front. Drop plumb bobs from those points and draw (i use a chalk line) a line extending from beyond the front of the car, to beyond the rear of the car, through those...
That will be an issue wih any method of checking front toe only (which is what he originally asked about)... Also, so long as nothing is bent, the tie rods should be the same length. If one is longer than the other with the rack centered and car square, something isn't right. The best, cheapest...
I've had the front drive axles cause that issue, specifically a worn inner tripod joint. As far as checking toe on the UTV (or any vehicle for that matter), I use use a set of toe plates. Makes it real quick and easy.
Longacre Toe Plates - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
I didn't really like the play in it, and I am building the car for me. I set the steering wheel where i wanted it, no need to adjust anymore, or add more weight to the car.
Thank you for the replies.. I have a downloaded copy of the R1 service manual now. I am probably just going to leave the pigtail for the stock display tucked under the dash so that I can plug it in if I need to run the diag through it. My primary display will be the IQ3, that way I can see all...
I'm just about to start the wiring and plumbing in my SR1 project, and have a few questions. Is the stock dash required for any reason other than display (I am planning on using a Racepak IQ3 dash)? Also, the harness was missing the connector for the stator, and the wires are all white with no...
Parker Pumper/Racing Plus is in Riverside. They stock Alpinestars, Sparco, Crow, Pyrotect, Simpson, and Oakley driving suits. As far as helmets, they have Bell, Simpson, Pyrotect, HJC, and Sparco. They wire them on site.