All UTV's Alignment

badassmav

Well-Known Member
Jun 11, 2013
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Jamul
Being a perfectionist, I always perform 4 wheel alignments on our car during the final assembly before each race. I know the coefficient of friction is forgiving in the dirt, and perhaps the time I spend may be in vain, but the Monster Mav always tracks straight and true, and is well mannered when driving in the deep grooves we all encounter while racing. Notice how I used thin strips of aluminum in place of the shocks to identify ride ht./wheel position. I run 7 degrees caster (factory caster setting) and -.4 degrees camber with 0" toe in at the rear hubs, while the front end gets 1/8"-1/4" toe in with -.3 degrees camber and 4 to 7 degrees +caster. Designing the pivoting joints in all of the suspension areas allows me infinite adjustability for these parameters, but more importantly, allows me to keep the axle plunge adjusted properly as the frame takes a beating and permanently deforms after severe impacts.
 
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badassmav

Well-Known Member
Jun 11, 2013
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Jamul
Hey thanks for sharing, this stuff is awesome for people like me just goofing around at home having no idea what I'm really doing!
You're welcome! I love sharing knowledge. Be it hard earned secrets, or fundamental design, I own nothing I know. It has all been done before.
 

crazywatson

#13 - UTVUnderground Approved
Jul 30, 2009
1,272
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Redwood City
That's one of those things that make it more comfortably to drive allowing you to concentrate on driving. Thanks for the pics and knowledge.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
 

badassmav

Well-Known Member
Jun 11, 2013
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Jamul
Whats your preferred method for setting the toe in?
I have this old toe gauge I purchased back in '88. I think it was from Williams low-buck tools co. It's an aluminum bar around 8' long with a fixed arm on one side, and a sliding gauge with a spring loaded arm on the other. Measure the rear of the tire first, and zero and lock the sliding gauge. Then, measure the front, and read the results. There are marks on the sliding portion that the spring loaded arm pivots on. It sweeps across marks to identify the difference (in 1/16" increments) between the rear sidewall and the front sidewall of the tire. I'll take a pic if I've confused you. Thanks for inquiring.
 

badassmav

Well-Known Member
Jun 11, 2013
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Jamul
I also align my car before every race. Makes for a more predictable drive and also allows me to see if anything has changed significantly.
That sure is a nice alignment rack! Now, I feel like a caveman. Are there provisions on any of your inboard control arm pivots for adjustment, or only on the outside? Our car has 26 rod ends, and 4 uniballs! $hit's gotta weigh over 60 lbs. if you add in the mounting hardware and weld bungs! To save weight, I'm considering incorporating a cam-style adjustment (kinda like the 70's chevy trucks had- an eccentric washer for front wheel alignment purposes) in place of the inner rod ends. How long to set up and align your car? It takes me the better part of a day to do mine, with my slide rule and plumb bob in hand. Lol! Are those holy gizmos attatched to your wheels there for a laser reference or measuring point of sorts? Your shop and technology is definitely envious:mad:! Your'e right about revealing frame deformation after each race through alignment. Next to monitoring my axle/cv joint plunge clearances, it (alignment) acts as a red flag on whether the chassis has sustained detrimental impacts or not, and alerts me to areas in need of attention. More than 1/2 of the people I speak with minimize the value of accurate wheel alignment, as it relates to the sport of desert racing. Of the 50% of believers, roughly only 1/2 of them do anything substantial about it. I'm not a driver, but riding with our driver , fast and in the grooved out lines that is the race course, the car seems to already have a huge tendency to dart around within the groove. I imagine that handling shortfall would only be multiplied if one of my rear tires were towed out excessivelty. I saw a UTV of one of the top teams in tech at this years Mint, and the driver rear tire towed in a minimum of 5/16" or more, while the passenger rear appeared to have zero to little toe-in, if any. Dude's winning races though:confused:. Thanks for sharing what you do with all of us.
 

G.T.

Member
Jan 15, 2010
180
5
18
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Gilroy, CA
I have this old toe gauge I purchased back in '88. I think it was from Williams low-buck tools co. It's an aluminum bar around 8' long with a fixed arm on one side, and a sliding gauge with a spring loaded arm on the other. Measure the rear of the tire first, and zero and lock the sliding gauge. Then, measure the front, and read the results. There are marks on the sliding portion that the spring loaded arm pivots on. It sweeps across marks to identify the difference (in 1/16" increments) between the rear sidewall and the front sidewall of the tire. I'll take a pic if I've confused you. Thanks for inquiring.

Your method sounds similar to what I've devised using string, straight edges, and a tape. Your tool is definitely more accurate than what I use. And your envious of the laser alignment tool NAATV uses...hell I want the one you have!
 

badassmav

Well-Known Member
Jun 11, 2013
1,379
182
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Jamul
Your method sounds similar to what I've devised using string, straight edges, and a tape. Your tool is definitely more accurate than what I use. And your envious of the laser alignment tool NAATV uses...hell I want the one you have!
So, a straight across trade then. My string, plumb bob, and toe gauge for your alignment rack:rolleyes:?! I'll even throw in my handy slide rule:D.
 

SimsMotorsports

Factory Polaris #1913
Feb 1, 2009
621
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Prescott Valley
Well your method is very effective! I started with a toe bar, a scribe, and a tape measure! Fortunately my shop has since purchased a computerized alignment machine that allows me to get my alignments within a 1/10 of a degree (where adjustments allow) I think an alignment is a very important ingredient to a well handling car. I also can't stand a steering wheel that isn't perfectly centered
 

badassmav

Well-Known Member
Jun 11, 2013
1,379
182
63
60
Jamul
Well your method is very effective! I started with a toe bar, a scribe, and a tape measure! Fortunately my shop has since purchased a computerized alignment machine that allows me to get my alignments within a 1/10 of a degree (where adjustments allow) I think an alignment is a very important ingredient to a well handling car. I also can't stand a steering wheel that isn't perfectly centered
:eek: I just realized who you are! Awesome job at the Mint, Branden! I just posted a reply on the Mint 400 video thread that Joey started. I'll paste it here, if you don't mind responding. I dont expect intimate details, just whether or not I'm close. Believe me, I have a dozen precise questions if you'd have them :)!
I'm amazed how well the 1913 handled the rollers. I noticed in contingency that it was sitting excessively high. I thought that, without much droop travel, it wouldn't handle that well. Was I wrong! It looks like they use a softer spring rate, which allows the additional inches of bump travel to absorb the heavy stuff. It also appears that the rebound dampening is lighter to allow the axles to fall back into the holes quicker. As a result, the car is using most of the available travel most of the time. A lot of vertical movement, but always level and smooth. I will definitely be spying
on this car the next time i see it! Great job, and congrats to a podium on youir first time out.
 

SimsMotorsports

Factory Polaris #1913
Feb 1, 2009
621
275
63
38
Prescott Valley
Thank you I appreciate that! That means a lot coming from a team like yours! Congrats on your guys finish also! I had a blast out there with everyone! I'll respond to the rest in your other post on the recap video
 

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