We are seeking input regarding the clutch in our race Maverick. We would like to hear what setup and or manufacture you have had good results with in extreme conditions. Our car is a fat 2,000 + lbs., and after 4 or 5 races we still are trying to get through a race with out suffering catastrophic failure of the primary as well as belts every 150-200 miles or so.. I've heard that a stock primary w/ an STM secondary works well if you modify the primary (springs, I believe).
Clutch Woes
- Thread starter badassmav
- Start date
i have been battetling blown belts, secondary bolts comming loose, and the primary slipping. I just ordered a Stm rage 6 and secondary through //Airdam clutches.
what have you tried?
what have you tried?
I would like to know what the cvt failures are on the race Mav?
Also, the problem with the stock primary is the fact that the inner and outer half's aren't keyed or locked together. Other then that it's built solid. I'm using a CVTech primary on mine. I don't like it long term. Seems cheap. But it does work good, is simple like a Rhino primary, and might be something to look at to help finish a race.
Do you have a 4" boat bilge blower installed on the inlet side of the cvt intake? Here's a post about the cfm flow with and without one. I run mine without the cvt cover.
Some more info. Thanks four4all for this info. not sure what machine this is off of but i think articcat. i would think they would all be similiar.
Ok here are the hard numbers:
Baseline - STOCK CVT NO BLOWER FAN IN LINE AT ALL
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
RPM ----- CFM --- +/-%
IDLE ---- 0 ------- 100%
2000 ---- 53 ------ 100%
3000 ---- 82 ------ 100%
4000 ---- 100 ----- 100%
5000 ---- 163 ----- 100%
6000 ---- 227 ----- 100%
7000 ---- 237 ----- 100%
STOCK CVT WITH RULE 3" BLOWER MOUNTED ON INLET TUBE BUT WITH BLOWER OFF
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~
RPM ----- CFM --- +/-%
IDLE ---- 0 ------- 100% (blower fan not moving)
2000 ---- 53 ------ 100% (blower fan still not moving)
3000 ---- 77 ------ 94% (blower fan started moving)
4000 ---- 97 ------ 97%
5000 ---- 103 ----- 63%
6000 ---- 139 ----- 61%
7000 ---- 159 ----- 67%
STOCK CVT WITH RULE 3" BLOWER MOUNTED ON INLET TUBE BUT WITH BLOWER ON
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~
RPM ----- CFM --- +/-%
IDLE ---- 65 ------ ∞
2000 ---- 97 ------ 183%
3000 ---- 117 ----- 142%
4000 ---- 125 ----- 125%
5000 ---- 201 ----- 123%
6000 ---- 230 ----- 101%
7000 ---- 243 ----- 102%
Conclusions:
1) The in line mounted blower used to help cool the CVT should NEVER be left off
is is absolutely choking the airflow, so either run it anytime the machine is
running or do not bother installing it.
2) The 3" inline Rule blower never inhibits airflow at any point, but up higher
it is maxed out. The blower is rated at 135 cfm so now I would recommend at
least the 4" blower which is rated at 235 cfm. I think the 4" blower would make
a big impact probably achieving double airflow of stock at least up to 4000
maybe 5000 rpm and likely raising the airflow at 6000 and 7000 rpm as well.
3) I think the ultimate setup would be an inlet and outlet blower combined with
taking in air from a cool source.
4) If there were more bends in the inlet and outlet the added blower will show
more of an improvement than this test reflects because the stock CVT will be
flowing far less with more bends, so even the 3" blower would have a much more
pronounced impact.
Also, the problem with the stock primary is the fact that the inner and outer half's aren't keyed or locked together. Other then that it's built solid. I'm using a CVTech primary on mine. I don't like it long term. Seems cheap. But it does work good, is simple like a Rhino primary, and might be something to look at to help finish a race.
Do you have a 4" boat bilge blower installed on the inlet side of the cvt intake? Here's a post about the cfm flow with and without one. I run mine without the cvt cover.
Some more info. Thanks four4all for this info. not sure what machine this is off of but i think articcat. i would think they would all be similiar.
Ok here are the hard numbers:
Baseline - STOCK CVT NO BLOWER FAN IN LINE AT ALL
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
RPM ----- CFM --- +/-%
IDLE ---- 0 ------- 100%
2000 ---- 53 ------ 100%
3000 ---- 82 ------ 100%
4000 ---- 100 ----- 100%
5000 ---- 163 ----- 100%
6000 ---- 227 ----- 100%
7000 ---- 237 ----- 100%
STOCK CVT WITH RULE 3" BLOWER MOUNTED ON INLET TUBE BUT WITH BLOWER OFF
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~
RPM ----- CFM --- +/-%
IDLE ---- 0 ------- 100% (blower fan not moving)
2000 ---- 53 ------ 100% (blower fan still not moving)
3000 ---- 77 ------ 94% (blower fan started moving)
4000 ---- 97 ------ 97%
5000 ---- 103 ----- 63%
6000 ---- 139 ----- 61%
7000 ---- 159 ----- 67%
STOCK CVT WITH RULE 3" BLOWER MOUNTED ON INLET TUBE BUT WITH BLOWER ON
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~
RPM ----- CFM --- +/-%
IDLE ---- 65 ------ ∞
2000 ---- 97 ------ 183%
3000 ---- 117 ----- 142%
4000 ---- 125 ----- 125%
5000 ---- 201 ----- 123%
6000 ---- 230 ----- 101%
7000 ---- 243 ----- 102%
Conclusions:
1) The in line mounted blower used to help cool the CVT should NEVER be left off
is is absolutely choking the airflow, so either run it anytime the machine is
running or do not bother installing it.
2) The 3" inline Rule blower never inhibits airflow at any point, but up higher
it is maxed out. The blower is rated at 135 cfm so now I would recommend at
least the 4" blower which is rated at 235 cfm. I think the 4" blower would make
a big impact probably achieving double airflow of stock at least up to 4000
maybe 5000 rpm and likely raising the airflow at 6000 and 7000 rpm as well.
3) I think the ultimate setup would be an inlet and outlet blower combined with
taking in air from a cool source.
4) If there were more bends in the inlet and outlet the added blower will show
more of an improvement than this test reflects because the stock CVT will be
flowing far less with more bends, so even the 3" blower would have a much more
pronounced impact.
Good thread! I had an early issue with my primary coming off within short delivery from my first maverick. After that we swapped my clutch to a full commander tuned race clutch and haven't had one problem yet, however the clutch works well for the normal guy it's not fast enough on the top end. The bottom end is great but it all depends on what kind of racing I suppose. My teammates maverick has a stock clutch with a shim pack to attempt and keep the primary bolted in and has worked for the season, first blown belt around 400 miles. We are not easy at all on these cars either haha if you have any questions feel free to give us a call at our shop 951 471 1615 -James Hill
what sucks is anybody or anything you try you are the test dummy. nobody has tested with 2000lb car plus put it through silt and everything else. the only person i would trust is someone who took a car and put 1000 miles of testing on it. then they can say they have a clutch kit. all of them only test seat of pants and theory.
I think STM has got it figured out now. They machined us a steel spider and I think its bullet proof. We did have clutch problems at the 1000, but it was from the silt, If I had had a good blow gun and pressurized air out in the field I wouldnt have had to change the clutch. Just my 2 pennies
i sure hope so, i just spent 2k on STM's with a steel spider for my maverick.I think STM has got it figured out now. They machined us a steel spider and I think its bullet proof. We did have clutch problems at the 1000, but it was from the silt, If I had had a good blow gun and pressurized air out in the field I wouldnt have had to change the clutch. Just my 2 pennies
Mike I dont have any doubt you will EVER have an issue with them.....Up until now STM has never seen these types of failures and believe they are directly related to the heat for such long periods of time. The ones we have broke have been after racing for HOURS with high outside ambient temps. Rest assure as a recreational user you will be good to go!! We also NEVER had a problem until we started making higher horse power as well.
Hey Jim! I had the air comp. also. Next to my cooler! I am alwayas ready to help and serve!I think STM has got it figured out now. They machined us a steel spider and I think its bullet proof. We did have clutch problems at the 1000, but it was from the silt, If I had had a good blow gun and pressurized air out in the field I wouldnt have had to change the clutch. Just my 2 pennies
Touche', my friend! Unfortunately, we never had the time to back up testing miles upon each other. I will say it here again now: I am convinced that the stock Maverick, and its ability to endure endless thrashing, is as present as Glamis. Marc's pre-runner has 2,500 miles on the stock powertrain. I'm talking thrashing miles. Roll it, launch it, or just drive it hard, it has always performed reliably. He always drives it back to the trailer. All we hope for is endless peace in the desert. Our garages have been busy with over-thought and trial and error. And so the fields are for play!
Suffice to say that our ton of fun is the fundamental problem. I hope to someday find a powertrain solution, but again, we think that the CVT design is best suited for cars under 1,800 lbs. or so. Please, keep your responses coming. We are hungry for input and any data that we can collect! But I will venture to say the word, "shoulder bolt". Best double shear pivot foundation I've seen so far!
We have compressed air.....Just not in the race car. We changed our clutchs in the field around 600. We started to have some issues with them wanting to stick in high gear.... Never seen those types of issues before but we have also never seen so much silt before.
did you shear off the bolts to helix. that has happened to us.We have compressed air.....Just not in the race car. We changed our clutchs in the field around 600. We started to have some issues with them wanting to stick in high gear.... Never seen those types of issues before but we have also never seen so much silt before.
wow you racers are brutal on parts. I sure hope my 2k investment with STM holds up to agressive weekend driving.
The only thing we have ever broke on the STM was the spider. We ran the same STM for V2R, BWDC, and the Henderson 250 in 2012....but we had a near stock engine. Then this season once we made a little more power we started having issues. Mark @ STM has been great to work with and he is Commited to making this clutch Bullet Proof. We aimed to prove just that at the Baja1000 and the silt created a bit of an issues with gear change sticking. Like I mentioned earlier...I think if I had compressed air out in the field when I had to change the clutch I could have blown it out and Kept Rocking!
This desert racing has proven to be a non stop learning curve for me....Just when you think you have your Program dialed in...some other little gremlin shows its face.
Thats no BS right there. Back when I was just a duner I thought Anything I did with my car in the dunes was a testing ground....Playing in the dunes has NOTHING on a race in the desert.
If you buy STM clutches make sure you biy them directly from STM of they will not give you customer support. I bought a set from a vendor and they would not awnser any questions and told me I need to talk to the vendor. Unless you vendor knows more then the people building them buy from STM. I spent almost 3k on this clutch set up and no support.
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//Airdam clutches is who i bought mine through. i just spent 2 hpirs with him in Glamis today and he fine tunned it. Perfect rpm throuh the hills and flats.
He is in glamis just south of the vendors row and is more than willing to tune clutches all day.
Great guy to deal with.
He is in glamis just south of the vendors row and is more than willing to tune clutches all day.
Great guy to deal with.
That is awesome!!! You got to love customer service like that. I couldn't even get questions answered with the vendor I used.
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