Kawasaki Help me understand Suspension!!

[waytay]

Ok I have a few questions for everyone. I am not looking for inside info or some top secret info.

I want to understand proper working utv suspension. I understand we have many uses and tracks versus dunes etc....

However If a teryx has complete movement up and down to each point where you dont want to damadge cv's or ball joints. Should a shock not be able to move completely from point A To Point B?? Ride height should be controlled by spring correct?? Why would you limit down travel except for binding of the cv or BJ. The up travel should be limited for the same reasons plus tire rub? You also dont want the bottom of the car dragging ass depending on tire size right?

Also Angle of shocks? Most LT kits except for a few use stock shock mounts. When you go LT the shock is moved out and has to work at more extreme angles right??? So what is the proper angle or degree of lean shocks should have to prevent binding. If they are mounted more upright would not true movement of the arm and shock be simulated versus more angle and less movement?

Again not looking for "top secret " info Just informed feed back to truly understand the proper workings of things. Kawi spent bucks to get these angles right so ????

 

[JoeyD23]

good stuff Waytay! I look forward to the responses.....

 

[waytay]

I just want to clarify this is for my understanding purposes and in no way am I unhappy with any products i have. My main question I guess is what do you gain when putting a long travel kit on and you use stock upper mounts versus towers like say on Kimbrells teryx. Obviously their is a benefeit. tuning, shock heat etc???

I just enjoy learning and like others input on things.

 

[Rusty5150]

I run a tower on the front of my Rhino. It allows me to run a 8" dual rate shock. It also allows me to get a couple more inches of wheel travel out of the front.

Almost all the race cars out run modified shock mounts front and rear. Some cars run 8" shocks, some cars run 2.5" shocks and some cars run coil pass shocks.

 

[JoeyD23]

Funco / Chad George front Shock set up

Funco / Tyler Winbury rear shock set up

XMF / Austin Kimbrell front Shock Set up

 

[REZ MOTORSPORTS]

The way I understand it is when you run custom shock mounts or a tower it puts the shocks upright and allows for more suspension travel without bottoming out the shocks or pulling out the shafts or cvs As you lay the shock down or increase the shock angle the more your suspension is going to feel softer on the small jumps, bumps while feeling stiffer on bigger jumps, bumps ect.
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
The more inclined the shock angle is “stock locationâ€ÂÂ
1. Softer initial shock damping.
2. More progressive damping.
3. Improved lateral traction.
4. Handling will be more forgiving.
5. Good for high traction or bite tracks, it will make your car more stable.
<o></o>
The less shock angle you have standing up the “shock towerâ€ÂÂ.
1. Stiffer initial shock damping.
2. Lowering lateral traction.
3. Makes your car more responsive.
4. Can make your car have a more direct feel.
5. Can be best suited for tight, technical tracks with many low speed corners
<o></o>
Correct me if I am wrong i am not an expert just info i pick up from talking with different people

 

[nictac1]

Good $hit!!

 

[JoeyD23]

ttt

 

[waytay]

The way I understand it is when you run custom shock mounts or a tower it puts the shocks upright and allows for more suspension travel without bottoming out the shocks or pulling out the shafts or cvs As you lay the shock down or increase the shock angle the more your suspension is going to feel softer on the small jumps, bumps while feeling stiffer on bigger jumps, bumps ect.
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
The more inclined the shock angle is “stock locationâ€ÂÂ
1. Softer initial shock damping.
2. More progressive damping.
3. Improved lateral traction.
4. Handling will be more forgiving.
5. Good for high traction or bite tracks, it will make your car more stable.
<o></o>
The less shock angle you have standing up the “shock towerâ€ÂÂ.
1. Stiffer initial shock damping.
2. Lowering lateral traction.
3. Makes your car more responsive.
4. Can make your car have a more direct feel.
5. Can be best suited for tight, technical tracks with many low speed corners
<o></o>
Correct me if I am wrong i am not an expert just info i pick up from talking with different people

I tell you what I would rather have alll the suspension in the world with a little less power out in the real world. Help make up for those oh shits and just make it more fun.

 

[waytay]

OK HERE IS THE SECOND PART QUESTION??

Now of course us guys who use the ride for everything must sacrifice when setting up the car for the dunes and then you ride ocotillo. Very differnt types of riding.

I know I know fox makes the rc2 adjustable shocks etc.... But how about varyieng the pressure of the notrogen to soften things up. backing the springs out a bit for trail riding to lower the ride height etc...

What do you guys do if anything???

 

[MAGNUM OFFROAD]

We find that it is best to set the car up for what the majority of the riding will be (track, desert, dunes). Changing nitrogen pressure, or coil preload will help a little, but would prob go unnoticed by most Rhino owners.

There are alot of factors that play into what each driver would consider "dialed" suspension (terrain, experience, driving style, and the car itself). We try to set all of our cars up with a good mid-range valving, able to work great in most conditions. Then like any offroad vehicle, it is up to the owner/driver to fine tune the suspension to his/her needs/style.

I have my car setup for desert driving (Ocotillo, Superstition, Etc.) which I do 80% of the time, and have found it works well in both the dunes and at the track as well. But I would definitley need to change things up if I wanted to run short course (too soft).

 

[Rusty5150]

The main thing to consider when setting a car up is your driving style and target terain. The best handling UTV I have ever driven was setup for the old Elsinore track. The car was very stiff. Chad Mitagg did the valving and the car worked perfect on the track and in the desert. This car was a little rough in the small choppy stuff. But if you are building a car to really get out and run it. I would suggest running a track style valving.

With only 14 inches of wheel travel you cant do to much. When setting up my car I knew I did not want to bottom out. So I will valve my shocks for my style of driving. I want to go through the whoops, jump, hit the dunes without bottoming out. I will post info on my valving once I pull the shocks down. I will take step by step pictures.

 

[nictac1]

I'm brand new to this suspension stuff, but would shock size & arm length make a difference when valving?
could I tune my suspension to someone elses settings & expect the same results?
love this $hit!!

 

[waytay]

We find that it is best to set the car up for what the majority of the riding will be (track, desert, dunes). Changing nitrogen pressure, or coil preload will help a little, but would prob go unnoticed by most Rhino owners.

There are alot of factors that play into what each driver would consider "dialed" suspension (terrain, experience, driving style, and the car itself). We try to set all of our cars up with a good mid-range valving, able to work great in most conditions. Then like any offroad vehicle, it is up to the owner/driver to fine tune the suspension to his/her needs/style.

I have my car setup for desert driving (Ocotillo, Superstition, Etc.) which I do 80% of the time, and have found it works well in both the dunes and at the track as well. But I would definitley need to change things up if I wanted to run short course (too soft).

The main thing to consider when setting a car up is your driving style and target terain. The best handling UTV I have ever driven was setup for the old Elsinore track. The car was very stiff. Chad Mitagg did the valving and the car worked perfect on the track and in the desert. This car was a little rough in the small choppy stuff. But if you are building a car to really get out and run it. I would suggest running a track style valving.

With only 14 inches of wheel travel you cant do to much. When setting up my car I knew I did not want to bottom out. So I will valve my shocks for my style of driving. I want to go through the whoops, jump, hit the dunes without bottoming out. I will post info on my valving once I pull the shocks down. I will take step by step pictures.

I agree with both of you. My preference is put up with a harsh ride over soft stuff, but when ya wanna put the hammer down have it respond with sweet sweet love of fluffy landings!!! or something like that

 

[JoeyD23]

I'm brand new to this suspension stuff, but would shock size & arm length make a difference when valving?

Yes it will......


could I tune my suspension to someone elses settings & expect the same results?


Yes but there are lots of variables that can make a car different in handling other than shock valving or suspension set up. Weight, Steering, Wheels and Tires, those can all play a role.


love this $hit!!

We all do!!

See Red....