Homemade Teryx Long Travel

deviant_illusion

go to the UTVUnderground where there is cool SHIAT
Feb 4, 2009
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WVC, UT
This thread is going to follow my long travel build for my Teryx. I have few reasons for sharing this build. First while this type of fabrication in home garages is some what common for sand cars off road buggies desert trucks their doesn't seem to be much of it on the web for the UTV guys building their own suspension. Next I want to show that while it is possible for most people with some fabricating skills to build their own suspension it just may not be the way to go unless you have access to a fair amount of tools help etc.. And last but not least I want to show that it can be done on a small budget. My wife and I have been trying to start a family for a few years now and over the last 6 months have turned to the medical professionals for help. This type of help come with a huge price tag so my fun money is slim at best.

Comment all you would like. Good bad I don't care I just ask that we try to keep this thread in the general area of long travel.


Ok so tonight I started step #1 the jig. The jig is all that matters with this type of stuff. Good jig = good arms. My jig will be mostly built from 2" .120 wall square tube. My friend Andrew machined all the stuff I need to hold the ball joints and bushings in. He did a great job. Everything is super tight and will make for some super tight arms.

My jig will be adjustable. From stock all the way up to 8 over. I am however not making the wheelbase adjustable. I don't think I will be building many arms on this jig and I want to keep stock wheelbase so the extra work doesn't seem worth it.

This is a shot of one of the ball joint fixtures I will be using in the jig. They are two pieces the top bolting to the bottom to create a tight fit.



This is a shot of the two pieces apart. You can also see the holes drilled and taped in the tube below. This will also be part of my jig.



Rear bushing area.



Rear bushing apart.



This just shows the top arm will be using the same type of system.




So that's all for tonight. I hope to have some more updates by the end of the weekend.
 
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Rusty5150

UTVUG PHOTOG
Jan 9, 2009
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I will be watching this thread. I like the garage builds. Even the ones that are sitting there doing nothing (my build).
 

family wagon

White Knuckled - UTVUnderground Approved
Jan 29, 2009
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I will be tuning in on this thread to see what's all involved ! Also want to wish you luck on starting your family....it is a blessim that's for sure..enough of that let's see some more L.T pics lol
 

Cowboy Rhino

New Member
Jan 6, 2010
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I will be following this to see how you do it. Maybe I will think about bulding for my Rhino. Keep up the good work.:)
 

deviant_illusion

go to the UTVUnderground where there is cool SHIAT
Feb 4, 2009
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My firend andrew who did all my machine work, his dad did my 3.5" over arms for my Rhino. The guy he built the jig for has it for sale if anyones interested.

 

Big Guy

Havasu Racer
Jun 16, 2009
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lake havasu city
I built my own LT kit a few years ago back when you had to spend $5000-$7000 for a good kit. plus I was able to build mine stronger then a lot of the kits out there.
 

deviant_illusion

go to the UTVUnderground where there is cool SHIAT
Feb 4, 2009
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TONIGHT'S UPDATED
I'm so lucky that my wife bought us tickets to go see "When In Rome" :( tonight I only had about an hour to work on the jig after work.

You should be able to see how it will adjust forward and back and will clamp down and hold it from turning on the jig rail. The rear will be bolted down with the same pattern so I can flip it for left and right.















 

deviant_illusion

go to the UTVUnderground where there is cool SHIAT
Feb 4, 2009
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Lower front arm Jig is done.

First finished drilling and taping the holes. Then next moved on to the rear fixture.



If you notice the paper between the angle iron its their so it can all be clamped tight welded then after it cools their will be just enough clearance it can move without a hammer.



Getting closer



Rear fixture welded up cooling with the clamps still on



Clamps off



Finished the front ball joint fixture and its done.



 

deviant_illusion

go to the UTVUnderground where there is cool SHIAT
Feb 4, 2009
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Looks good so far! Gonna have it done for the race in may?
I guess I dont have a choice with you and your crew of "race rhinos" I need somthing to help me keep up. :)

But ya if it all works out then it should be more then done for may. If not I guess I will have to show up and teach you Rhino boys how to do it on stock suspension. Thats if I dont crash again this year.
 

deviant_illusion

go to the UTVUnderground where there is cool SHIAT
Feb 4, 2009
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Ok and the last update for the day.

I started working on the fixture for the top arms untill the carbon monoxide sensors told me to turn the heater off and then I lasted about 30 more minutes untill my toes where cold.



I dont know if I will get to work on it tomorrow a buddy is bringing his tacoma over to have me help him install a 2.5" lift and I have a Ice Hockey game in the afternoon so I guess we will see how the lift goes.
 

deviant_illusion

go to the UTVUnderground where there is cool SHIAT
Feb 4, 2009
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Over on Teryx forums their has been alot of talk about some +3 arms and stock shocks. So slight change in plans Im going to build a set of +3 arms and test them first with my stock shocks. My goal is to have them done and test them at Little Sahara on Presidents day. After the +3 set is done Im going to do my set of +5 arms for myself.


OK so I didn't do anything Sunday or Monday. Tonight I finished up the upper are jig.



Then I built a simple fixture that bolts on so I can set shock tabs in the correct place on the +3 arms.



So tomorrow if time allows I will start building som +3 arms. :pepper1:

After I get the fonts built I will do fixtures and build the rears.
 

BrianAshby1

SilverBulletXP4 Sucka!
Feb 22, 2009
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ok i am curious cause this is real interesting to see...

i noticed you made a peice to your jig for the shock mount as well... i dont know much about the difference in shock geometry when building longer arms, do you want to relocate the area that the shock mounts when extending the arms? and how do you figure out how much to bring it out?

by the way work looks awesome so far, i am going to keep checking this out i think it will come along awesome!!! and save you money!!!
 

deviant_illusion

go to the UTVUnderground where there is cool SHIAT
Feb 4, 2009
241
8
18
41
WVC, UT
ok i am curious cause this is real interesting to see...

i noticed you made a peice to your jig for the shock mount as well... i dont know much about the difference in shock geometry when building longer arms, do you want to relocate the area that the shock mounts when extending the arms? and how do you figure out how much to bring it out?

by the way work looks awesome so far, i am going to keep checking this out i think it will come along awesome!!! and save you money!!!
With a +3 kit the shock will be stock size and in the stock location. The travel will come from the longer arm. This will make the ride much softer due to the extra leverage on the shock mounting point. My kit will be a +5 and my plan is to set my travel at 70* bump 30* down and mount the shock as close to 90* off the arm as possible at full bump. This is new for me also so this till be trial and error. Any feedback from others on shock mounting location is welcome.
 

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