Shock revalving for dummies....

deviant_illusion

go to the UTVUnderground where there is cool SHIAT
Feb 4, 2009
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Just curious, what rates did you end up with on the Teryx ?
I know it works...
375# front
475# rear
And a custom sway bar
Mine is a stiff ride but that's how I like it.
I personally cold careless about slow speed spring rates and valving if I wanted to drive slow I would have just left it stock.
 

NYCEGUY01

Member
Jul 9, 2012
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Your heavy rebound valving makes more sense now.
That's sprung a ton heavier than my RZR and I don't think your car is heavier than mine..
Im at 250 rear and 200 or 225 front currently.

Now you've got me thinking again...lol
 

deviant_illusion

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Feb 4, 2009
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Your heavy rebound valving makes more sense now.
That's sprung a ton heavier than my RZR and I don't think your car is heavier than mine..
Im at 250 rear and 200 or 225 front currently.

Now you've got me thinking again...lol
I'm running a 90,3 rebound stack in rear. So that's a .020 stack with the first 3 shims doubled. But also all my experience has been with fox, walker evens and radflo not king
 

warlock

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Jan 23, 2009
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Im No shock Valving Guru or genius but I will throw in my 2 1/2 cents lol.
Springs are there to hold the car up. The Valving will control everything. So find your weight and get the springs to Hold it up and Go from there.
 

deviant_illusion

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Feb 4, 2009
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Im No shock Valving Guru or genius but I will throw in my 2 1/2 cents lol.
Springs are there to hold the car up. The Valving will control everything. So find your weight and get the springs to Hold it up and Go from there.
That's a blanket statement. Lots of spring weights will hold my car up with 0"-3" of pre load that doesn't mean I can tune the shock to make them all perform the same. Keep in mind the more valving the faster the oil will heat and fade the shock. And rear a arm anything take a lot of rebound to controll it's natural tendency to buck.
 

warlock

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Jan 23, 2009
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well call it what you will but on the Bilsteins they would go for a light weight spring and the rest was in the valving and they were so plush it was ridiculous. They were setup for desert racing.
 

NYCEGUY01

Member
Jul 9, 2012
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Ive got more shims on the way so I can go wherever I need to with the stacks.
Im going to add some pre load, some Nitrogen pressure and see where Im at.
 

deviant_illusion

go to the UTVUnderground where there is cool SHIAT
Feb 4, 2009
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well call it what you will but on the Bilsteins they would go for a light weight spring and the rest was in the valving and they were so plush it was ridiculous. They were setup for desert racing.
Mind sharing spring rates and valve stacks and vehicle info for us all? If we are sharing opinions based on our own personal experience it would make this thread more useful to include tech info also.
 

NYCEGUY01

Member
Jul 9, 2012
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The more info posted the better.....
I searched a ton of forums and there isn't much info out there on this subject, at least that I found....

A bunch of different setups and starting points would be great to compare etc...


This site would be the place for it if it could happen....
 

warlock

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Jan 23, 2009
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Mind sharing spring rates and valve stacks and vehicle info for us all? If we are sharing opinions based on our own personal experience it would make this thread more useful to include tech info also.
I would love to share anything I can to help, but our experience was with the Bilsteins with resivoirs and the guy that we were Taught by was probably the Best around Gary Fries of Micro touch and he was the guy who did the Shocks on Ivan Stuarts Toyota Race trucks.(Iron Man Stuart) if you don't know who he was look him up. So if you want to learn about the Bisteins call gary at Micro touch. Gary had us Bring one Race car out to Havasu and He would Video Tape a Run through the Whoops and He Would go from there, He is a Mad Scientist Type LOL. Try Some of his stuff and you will be Sold on the Bilsteins.:cool:
 

UtvMilitant

New Member
Sep 10, 2013
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You can go as low as 100 psi, and as high is 200 psi on the nitrogen. But it's best to stick with the 150 psi. The nitrogen does hardly anything to the dampening. It's mostly to keep the oil from cavitating, or getting air bubbles in it which makes the dampening ineffective. To add more rebound,, you can add another large shim to your valve stack. Go to the Fox website, and look for their valving chart. Let me know if you find it, if not I can post it up when I get home. It shows the different thicknesses of shims, and they give them a number. Like all. 010=70#, .012=90#,etc. It also shows how doubling and even tripling the large shims will affect the valving.
damn. super helpful info. thanks!
 

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