Yamaha HOW TO: Install a Bronco "Dry" Clutch

RuggedRadios

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Jan 20, 2009
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Arroyo Grande, CA
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Thanks to Dan Kelly at Bronco Products - We had a Bronco Dry Clutch for our 660 Rhino. Its been sitting here for a few weeks and today I decided to put it on! I apologize as this isn't a FULL Pictorial step by step as I forgot to take pics of a few things, but better than nothing.

First off - strip the rhino down. I removed both front seats, the engine plastic cover, both lower plastic panels around the motor, the seat base angled steel pieces, and the front motor support. You need to unbolt the parking brake and gear shifter from the motor support first, as well as undo the plastic clips that hold the airbox to it.

Then, unbolt the clip holding the coolant line in place right at the front of the motor, and push the tube down. This will allow you to remove the clutch plastic cover when it is unbolted. Remove those bolts (about 10), and pull it out through the tubes under the seat and set aside.



Next you will see the metal cage around the primary clutch side. Remove that - 4 bolts and make sure to watch the 1 alignment dowels that will come out. Set that aside.



You should be looking at this:



Next unbolt the secondary sheave (27mm bolt) and the primary sheave (30mm bolt maybe? Dont remember). You will notice when you try to remove the secondary you cant, because it hits the seat frame.

Do this:



Strap to a hole on the cylinder head hole and to the passenger side of your cage and crank it down, itll tilt the motor to the pass side and give you the clearance you need to remove it. Then remove the primary sheave.





So you will have this:



Then remove the back half of the plastic cover:



and you will have this!



Now the time to drain your oil and remove filter. 17mm drain plug underneath, give it a few minutes to drain.

Remove the 9 I think bolts that hold on the primary wet clutch housing. Oil will come out so remember to drain first! There are 2 locating dowels under that housing, make sure to save them.

After its removed, scrape the seal area to get all of the old gasket off.

 

RuggedRadios

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Jan 20, 2009
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Take the nut off and remove the wet clutch!



Put the new supplied Yamaha gasket on, with the locating dowels, and then put the new housing on and tighten down. Torque is 7.2 foot lbs.



Now take your stock secondary sheave and insert the 2 allen bolts provided into the holes to space it out. Apply loctite first.



Then slide it onto the shaft and put the nut back on. 75 ft lbs on that one.



Put the belt on, slide the bronco clutch onto the primary shaft, and insert the bolt (LEFT HAND THREAD) and tighten to 100 ft lbs.



Put the rest of your crap on and you are good to go! Im leaving it all apart while we drive it around the shop a bit to get it to heat up and cool down then re torque the bolt just to make sure.
 

AZCourt

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Feb 11, 2009
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I'm gonna add my 2 cents here....I always locktight the small wet clutch cover bolts and the secondary nut. Also use anti seize on the threads of the primary bolt (the reverse thread one). I havent done a Bronco and am not sure if the bolt and adapter are stainless, but they are on PDM. Stainless to stainless tends to gaul without antiseize.
 

RuggedRadios

Official UTVUnderground Communications Sponsor
Jan 20, 2009
2,608
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Arroyo Grande, CA
www.ruggedradios.com
Cool, thanks Court.

We are leaving the cover off until we re torque things, but the stock plastic cover will fit after we dremel out a hole for the primary bolt head.

The Primary bolt is not stainless.
 

AZCourt

AZ's Finest - UTVUnderground Approved
Feb 11, 2009
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One other thing, with the cover on I had to run a 3" blower on my cvt inlet tube. I mounted it up behind my seat where the dirt cover was and put an outerware on it to keep rocks out. I measured the stock clutch air flow and it had 150 cfm at about 5000 rpm. Without the blower I was only getting 50 or so. With the blower it was back up to 150. The fans on the dry clutches areent quite the same as the stock ones.
 

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