HAVE BONE STOCK MOTOR BESIDES CDI, JET KIT AND CLUTCH. WHEN DRIVEN WIDE OPEN OR JUST IDLING MY RHINO OVERHEATS. HAVE HD RADIATOR AND FULL SHROUD WITH LARGE FAN THAT RUNS WITH KEY. I DONT THINK ITS LEAN?
Yamaha OVERHEATING?
- Thread starter bryanupdike
- Start date
welcome to the site...I am sure one of the fine members here will point you in the right direction....the Radiator is clean and in stock location? are you sure its overheating or is the light just coming on?
yeah clean and in stock location, i thought just the light was coming on then i ran the woops like 3 times and my floorboard was soaked with antifreeze
yes i did bleed the system and fill with supercool instead of regular antifreeze after first overheat. was thinking a possible pump starting to go, what is the normal replacement interval ? ive seen a lot of talk about larger oil coolers and fans for the oil cooler also? i installed a cap from a buddy... locking type i was also planning on pressure testing the cap. the cap i was given is 16psi what is stock cap rated.
here is how I would go about it
take cap off and jack front of rhino up a little, fill radiator to top while having bleeder open, close bleeder when water comes out.
start rhino and watch water and temp, when it gets warm, see if t-stat opens and water starts moving, if you don't see any movemnet, your t-stat or pump is bad, if water starts moving, may just be a bad cap. Stock I believe is 11 p.s.i
take cap off and jack front of rhino up a little, fill radiator to top while having bleeder open, close bleeder when water comes out.
start rhino and watch water and temp, when it gets warm, see if t-stat opens and water starts moving, if you don't see any movemnet, your t-stat or pump is bad, if water starts moving, may just be a bad cap. Stock I believe is 11 p.s.i
I have not seen a t-stat on a stock rhino motor out west yet. they are usually open for a 660
not sure on the 700 though.
I have seen the water pump lose one of the tangs that engages it and it will not flow properly.
you can drain oil and pull pump off to inspect.
like mentioned, air in the system is usually the culprit.
not sure on the 700 though.
I have seen the water pump lose one of the tangs that engages it and it will not flow properly.
you can drain oil and pull pump off to inspect.
like mentioned, air in the system is usually the culprit.
to check the pump just feel each side of the radiator, they should warm up at basically the same time. if it runs for a minute or two and the radiator is still cold and the head is hot you have a pump problem. ive had 3 pumps fail, but it was from the engine harmonics breaking off the auto decomp tanges on the cam, then falling between the pump drive breaking off one of the ears. if your getting coolant coming out its sounding like a blown head gasket. it will push the coolant out the overflow bottle. or a leak in the line possibly.
an air pocket might be it. but i dont usually have em push coolant out because of it. it just gets hot because its not letting the coolant flow.
I FILLED AND BLED THE RADIATOR THE FIRST TIME, NOT ON A SLANT THO?.. THATS ONLY AFTER THE LIGHT CAME ON, AFTER THAT I FILLED IT AND BLED , THEN FILLED WITH SUPERCOOL. WE DID A SLOW RIDE THRU THE HILLS AND SOME CRAWLING WITH THE KIDS. THEN WE PARKED AND I FIXED SOMEONE ELSES TIRE CAUSE I HAD A COMPRESSOR ON MY RHINO. WHEN I GOT BACK IN 4 MINUTES LATER I SAW THE LIGHT ON AGAIN. ONLY PUSHED OUT THE COOLANT THE ONE TIME AFTER WE WERE MAKING A VIDEO AND I RAN A LONG STRETCH OF WOOPS LIKE THREE TIMES. THEN NOTICED MY FLOOR WET. IM THINKING IT MIGHT BE THE PUMP. MAYBE A A LIL RPM IT WORKS BUT AT IDLE IT DOESNT PUSH ENOUGH WATER. THAT WOULD MAKE SENSE UNDER FULL POWER TOO . WHATS A PUMP COST AND IS THER AN UPGRADE I SHOULD LOOK INTO. WHAT ABOUT OIL COOLERS.