CT Racing Maverick Build

AReed

Member
Oct 2, 2012
234
2
18
I can post more up next Saturday. It will be on display at the Unlimited Offroad Expo in KY and I don't want to spoil it.
 

badassmav

Well-Known Member
Jun 11, 2013
1,379
182
63
60
Jamul
We leave for the expo in 2 days so I left the radius rods in the front and flopped the spindles and calipers for the time being. The high clearance lower arms make getting the radius rods in there a complete whore. When I get back from the expo I'll strip it back down and address those issues in full.
Drive shaft wise I have a brand new one here as I need to get all my measurements nailed down for production. As of now I cut my stock one in the lathe, got it as close as I could, timed the U joints and burned it in. That's something that will get properly addressed when I get back as well.
A lathe. Mmmm, sounds good! One of the many tools that I live without. If I recall, the stock driveshaft was made out of some odd sized metric tubing, I want to say it was a 1.345" o.d. and the i.d. was a funky size also. I believe that when we cut the drive shaft, we cut it long leaving 3 or 4 inches of the stock shaft past the yoke. If you separated the weld-in yoke/stub from the stock drive shaft tube, the plug diameter of the weld-in yoke would be too small to fit into a 1 1/2" x .090" wall replacement tube, and you couldn't get an accurate weld. So, we had to leave the outer factory tube attatched to the yolk and turn down the facxtory tube o.d. to slide into 1 1/2" x .090" wall CDS tube. When it was all said and done, there wasnt much material, or wall thickness left on that factory shaft we turned down, but it is supported by the i.d. of the new drive shaft tube, so we went with it.

What are you going to do with the sway bar? I found that adding 3" to the length of the lever arm, and moving the point where the links bolt to the arm by the same amount, softened up the stock swaybar just about right. Other wise, it would have limited the suspensions ability to independently drop into holes quickly, or maybe even not at all with the additional 5"of wheel travel. It's my guess that your objective when designing the kit was front/rear weight bias more than it was wheel travel.

Your new arms sure take on a different look by not widening the track. Mine still resembles the stock outline 'cause they swept back 4 1/2", but also out 5 1/2". I assume that you are displaying at the expo to expose and market your kit. Have you given much thought as to how much the kit will cost, and what it will include? I really want to offer a desert racing LT kit similar to what we run on the race Maverick. The carrier box for the rear diff is a good idea. It makes it so the driveway fabricator can install the kit, and get good results. Mine would have to come with a total weld-on rear clip that I would have to jig up for. The complexity of plating and cutting the existing rear end of the frame to facilitate sliding the diff back was difficult at best, and way above the skills of a weekend warrior. But a novice to intermediate level fab man could easily cut off the 6 rear tubes where they attach to the transverse motor mount and sway bar square tubes, and weld in a complete new rear clip.

$hit :eek:, another manifesto! I get on a roll, and blab out all of the details that I feel are relevant. :eek: You're smart enough. You'll figure it out! If you feel that you want to brainstorm, drop me a note, and I'll help however I can. I gotta get back to work!
 

AReed

Member
Oct 2, 2012
234
2
18
I turned the rear sway bar down in the rear and added a front sway bar.
I have LT drawn in the computer. I just need to have it cut
 

AReed

Member
Oct 2, 2012
234
2
18
The carrier took a lot of work to get right, between diff clearance issues and frame clearance issues it went through the phases of design and I have one more change to make.
I need to get all the components nailed down in full before I start talking price but I have a ton of R&D in it. It'll probably be between $2-3k
 

Baxter

New Member
Sep 24, 2011
47
0
0
OHIO
Awesome build! The sub frame and suspension work on the back looks great.Not trying to beat you up or take anything away from your build but I agree on the A pillar needing support.I bet that thing handles like a dream at full tilt.
 

AReed

Member
Oct 2, 2012
234
2
18
The a pillar was going to get support once we were finally going to redo the cheesy door bars but I'm going to remove that cage and start of over. I love the cage and the low center of gravity but even being 6'5 I can't see in the slow technical stuff. Now that we're rebuilding for KOH I need to be able to see over the hood better for the rocks.
 

mearsman

Active Member
Nov 2, 2011
459
55
28
52
My thought was bolt a plate to the back of it for the utvinc rear bumper to be welded to


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

warlock

Wanna Go Fast? - UTVUnderground Approved
Jan 23, 2009
1,041
170
63
54
az
The carrier took a lot of work to get right, between diff clearance issues and frame clearance issues it went through the phases of design and I have one more change to make.
I need to get all the components nailed down in full before I start talking price but I have a ton of R&D in it. It'll probably be between $2-3k
Nice work Alex. Damn American ingenuity and Hard work makes some cool shit. The Japs and the Chinese only wish in there wildest dreams to be able to come up with an awesome original Idea all on there own. Lol.
 

AReed

Member
Oct 2, 2012
234
2
18
good looking kit. with your new design did you leave enough room for rear down tubes to be welded in or a bolt on plate that can have the tubes welded to it?


This horizontal face has a 2" area to have a tube welded on. It's the same area I left on mine. If we can increase that size to 2.25" then I definitely will.
As you notice on this one the radius rod mounts are in that pocket in the back.
 

AReed

Member
Oct 2, 2012
234
2
18
Nice work Alex. Damn American ingenuity and Hard work makes some cool shit. The Japs and the Chinese only wish in there wildest dreams to be able to come up with an awesome original Idea all on there own. Lol.
Damn Chinese stuff works one time, two time, no more time.

I don't want anything to do with that for sure.
 

DBlank72

RZR Junkie
Jun 27, 2014
37
0
6
33
Candler, NC
What a great build, I have read it from start to finish and look forward to updates. What software is your 3D modeling done in? Is that solid works? I used Pro/Engineer in college but heard that solid works is the way to go. I really like your modeling and part design aspect of your build.
 

megadesertdiesel

Well-Known Member
Jan 25, 2009
1,838
73
48
Mesa, AZ
I think Alx has nailed a need in the market. Why sell a sxs for a huge loss just to have the latest and greatest machine when you can upgrade you current ride to beat the new rides.

Areed's kit, Evolutions programming and some shock tunning. Wholly chit watch out. I can see 80mph passes through nasty woops while holding a Grape Nehi and not spilling a drop on my skinny jeans.
 

desertdog615

Member
Aug 30, 2011
169
1
18
I think Alx has nailed a need in the market. Why sell a sxs for a huge loss just to have the latest and greatest machine when you can upgrade you current ride to beat the new rides.

Areed's kit, Evolutions programming and some shock tunning. Wholly chit watch out. I can see 80mph passes through nasty woops while holding a Grape Nehi and not spilling a drop on my skinny jeans.
Who are you kidding? you cant wear skinny jeans anymore. LOL
 

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