SDR1 Build: Stage I

LSRGreg

#877 SR1 UTV - UTVUnderground Approved
Jan 26, 2009
365
10
0
I was able to snag some pics. Wurd is, they are headed to sand blast as i type this.









these are only available through Weller Racing.. i just posted up some spy photos for you guys to check them out..
 
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Hobie164

Hobie164
Aug 25, 2009
47
0
0
38
Anaheim Hills, Ca
When I used to race shifter karts some of us ran paddle shifters that were run with a cable. Has anyone thought about doing that with the R1 conversion. I will see if I can find out who makes the kit.
 

LSRGreg

#877 SR1 UTV - UTVUnderground Approved
Jan 26, 2009
365
10
0
that would be cool. only thing that might hurt, is that shifter carts don't usally have the steering wheel turn more than once, where the rhino its 2.5 lock to lock i think.. so those cables might not work having to move that much.. it would be awesome though!

G-
 

Hobie164

Hobie164
Aug 25, 2009
47
0
0
38
Anaheim Hills, Ca
well you can float the system behind the steering wheel so that the paddles never move. That is how my system was. The up and down paddle always stayed at 10 and 2 and the steering wheel spun independently of them
 

LSRGreg

#877 SR1 UTV - UTVUnderground Approved
Jan 26, 2009
365
10
0
well you can float the system behind the steering wheel so that the paddles never move. That is how my system was. The up and down paddle always stayed at 10 and 2 and the steering wheel spun independently of them
Ahh.. right on.. i get it.

Ive been trying to find an electric or air shifter that will do up AND down, I WILL find a way to do it.

So, these are the much needed uprights to get more travel????
yup.. those are the ones. They make the axles longer, so you can get more movement out of the suspension before the cv joints maxes out the travel.
 

Wild Earp

50Fifty Racer - UTVUnderground Approved
When I used to race shifter karts some of us ran paddle shifters that were run with a cable. Has anyone thought about doing that with the R1 conversion. I will see if I can find out who makes the kit.
Its definitely do able with the rhino and a cable shift setup. Ive got a few pictures where people have done it in buggies, and also those European kit cars with R1s. I was going to do it on mine, with a 1 sided setup, but ended up just doing the shifter on the console, as it was able to be positioned really close to the wheel anyways. And I wanted to do solid linkage instead of cable, for reliability and tight positive shift fee.



Build update: finished the header mods and put the S&S Muffler on. Sounds good, not to loud, atleast at lower RPMs, but really mean sounding, and smooth at the same time. I just need to finish my radiator plumbing, so I can warm the motor up enough to do some high RPM revs!

A quick sound byte. Audio quality probably isnt great, just took it with my iPhone.

MobileMe Gallery
 

Wild Earp

50Fifty Racer - UTVUnderground Approved
Clutch Master cylinder, and Slave Cylinder in. Just waiting on some brake line parts to finish that off. Speedlinez was nice enough to send me a set of custom front and rear braided steel lines to reach my new reverse hanging pedals with the stock master cylinder, so as soon as that stuffs gets here, Ill have a pretty darn close to drivable car!

Ill snap a few pics of the details on Wednesday and post em up.

Getting really excited now, its nearly done!

(NOTE for users of the Peter D air filter on 04-06 cars. You need to trim the bottom of the filter plastic a bit right where the nut (that spins) on the top of the servo for the secondary butterflys is, otherwise youll throttle will get stuck on high.)
 

Wild Earp

50Fifty Racer - UTVUnderground Approved
To make it Go, first you must make it stop.

Weve got brakes!

Up front: Stock rhino brakes with custom length Speedlinez stainless braided brake lines. EBC SV pads.



Out back: Weller Racing SR1 center mounted rotor (using Galfer Wave disc), stock 06 caliper with EBC SV pads. Retains ability to use stock e-brake. Speedlinez standard rear SS line.







And in the cab: CNC reverse swing pedals, with a 1/4" laser cut adapter for the stock master cylinder. Stock hard line straightened and rebent. Upgradeable to either a single CNC master, or a dual master adjustable CNC setup, without needing to do any fab work. Stock hard line straightened and rebent.







Also seen is the CNC master cylinder for the clutch pedal, plumbed with 3/16" SS hard line, and SS braided flex line at the slave cylinder (both premade from JEGS - no flare tools needed).
 

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